Sunday, August 7, 2011

Train horn air set up

First off sorry about such a long video, I wanted to get as much info as I could into it. If anyone watching has any further questions, comment or send me a message and I'll be glad to help. That being said, a couple of extra things: 1) OBEY THE LAW!!!! If you use the info in this video to mount a horn on your car, you do so at your own risk. I cannot and will not be held responsible for the misuse of any information in this video. 2) Valves. Though it is the best, a gram white valve isn't necessary. You can run a horn off a ball valve or (god forbid) a solenoid. The GW is just more fun and accurate. 3) Hoses. The red hose you see is a Goodyear 200 PSI rated hose that I bought by the foot at a hardware store. If you do go this route and use garden hose connectors, I would suggest gettign 3/4 inch hose. Reason being is that the 3/4" hose barbs are 1/2" internal, where as the 1/2" hose barbs on that red hose are 1/4" inside, hence why it's the tank to tank hose. In a horn air set up, the less restrictions the better! The yellow hose is a self coiling 1/2" air hose that was special ordered. 4) Pressure! I mentioned this in the video, but didn't explain. Locomotives operate with 140 PSI in the main reservoir. All horns designed for railroad service are rated to at least this, most are rated to 150. For hobby use though, I strongly recommend 90-100, never over 120. Over 100, the horn(s) don't sound any louder, but they do sound a lot harsher. Just listen to any BNSF dash 9 ...

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